When the team at Backwash asked Demi to write an opinion piece for Issue 2 her thoughts naturally turned to the much maligned world of body surfing.

The much maligned world of bodysurfing Backwash Vol2 Surfing Anthology

Illustration: David Beckitt

“I pulled on some fins and swam out back. And here’s the joy of it; every cliché you ever read about bodysurfing is true…It’s surfing stripped back, pure joy, just you and the wave, and you’re up to your neck in it, in your element. And it’s this that teaches you some humility. You’re no longer sitting on a board eye to eye with your peers. Your place in the line up is altered – physically and psychologically…”

 

Backwash Magazine Surf Anthology

 

BACKWASH ISSUE 2 is out now.